HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION:
by KARL LAGERFELD
by KARL LAGERFELD
WE’RE used to seeing the grandest of sets from Mr Lagerfeld when it comes to a Chanel show (his supermarket sweep for ready-to-wear being one of his most memorable yet), but today this was all pared right back down for a space in the Grand Palais that was simply a white room accompanied by a virtual fireplace and a glass mirror over its mantelpiece.
But it was the ideal setting when it came to showing off Lagerfeld’s skills – this is a designer who is at his best when he does something very glamorous and slightly historical. So he gave us his Artful Dodger best for a collection that presented beautiful urchin girls who brought his 18th Century references (most noted in the regal embroidery of many a frock coat) right up to date with ribbon-tie flip-flop flats in place of last season’s couture trainers.
The girls took to the catwalk with quiffs and caps on the back of their heads and short pantaloons, which even came worn under little short suits and coats – this was a couture riff on a Charles Dickens classic from start to finish.
Everything was intricately embroidered or boasted sequins or crystals – across bodices, or jackets, smatterings of gold climbing up hems or clustering at collars, dancing around necklines and straps. The level of fabrication perfectly showed off the special couture skills that this house has at its disposal and it was a delight to see on display.
For cocktail attire there came a strong focus on trapeze shapes, gentle A-lines for skirts and dresses that spanned a palette of smoky greys (mimicked also in the make-up tones), off-white, pale gold, navy and black. Bags were like satchels and though used sparingly made for another clever modern note.
And while there won’t be a woman out there who wouldn’t not dream of stepping out in one of those serious gowns to end, we can’t help but know the real story here will end up being those flip-flop-style flats. Comfortable couture.
ONCE again held at the Rodin Museum, today’s Christian Dior Couture show saw us enter another Raf Simons structure in the gardens – oblong this time – which contained an orchid-walled circular structure. “Confronting what people now think is modern” – as Simons stated in the show notes – the designer created a mash-up of historical fashion references, taking inspiration from the Eighteenth century French court, Edwardian tailoring through to the modern day.
Watched by a front row that included Charlize Theron, Sean Penn, Valerie Trierweiler, Mario Testino, Paolo Roversi, the Arnaults and Bianca Jagger, the collection was shown in sets of not more than eight or 10 looks, which was effective in concentrating the mind to focus on the details. Simons did not deviate from his usual model of choice – pale-skinned, straight-haired – but did send them out to meander in a circle, hands in pockets, no linear sense of a catwalk to speak of.
The show started at the end, in traditional couture terms, beginning with ballgowns and further reiterating the message that all is now one in the same. Pannier-skirted gowns were three-quarter rather than full-length and were worn with narrow, sporty bodice tops in embroidered silk and armfuls of silver bangles.
The second set was more sporty: a grey silk jumpsuit with zipped details and minute motifs cinched with a metal belt bearing lacquered discs; while the third introduced an Edwardian mood: long patterned coats and one long grey mink coat worn simply with black trousers.
Typically, luxurious fabrications – with coats in mink, chinchilla and cashmere – were bought down to ground level by the simple styling and the nonchalant models, all in flat shoes and casually strolling. The following section, featuring Eighteenth century-inspired fop coats in heavily embroidered pastels, and then a number of dark navy pea coats with exaggerated taped shoulder detail, had the same easy mood.
A suggestion of time travel, approached in Simons’ unique way, manifested itself in a collection that brought history up to date.
“Be inspired by print, colour and shape and take your pick from a selection of cover-ups fit for colder weather and any sense of style”
by TARRYN OPPEL
photography by JUSTIN POLKEY
Elle South Africa Vol.19
– “Rainy weather, gray skies, jittery teeth, purple toes and ice-cold puddles”
“Oh how will we ever defeat mother nature?” –
Please, don’t get me wrong, I love winter, in fact, it’s my favorite season. Nothing brings me more joy than to disappear underneath an ocean of warm blankets while sipping on a hot cup of coffee and paging through my fashion collections. Though when it comes to facing the outdoors, I’m afraid a cup of coffee won’t be enough to calm the cold. Despite my steamy love affair with winter, I have to admit that the uncomfortableness of the freezing weather drives me insane. Due to this icy coldness of winter, it sometimes (actually most of the time) is difficult to create an outfit where fashion and comfort would be in perfect harmony. The key for a un des amis de la mode to survive mother nature’s icy strike is to achieve the perfect balance between fashion and comfort: to still dress classy, but also be warm enough to resist the cold. It all finally comes down to the popular question “What to wear?” we so frequently ask ourselves, especially on those freezing days when not even layering can save you from mother nature’s cold heart.
Winter calls for the cover-up season. It’s when coats, puffer jackets and ultra-cool biker jackets all come together to provide us with a comfy&trendy look to hot-up our wardrobes. In summer it’s easy to fix up a quick&stylish collaboration with quirky crops and sassy skirts and still be comfortable, however, winter makes it seem impossible for fashion to conquer the teeth-clinging cold. It’s necessary to assure that the items you purchase during this season is not only aesthetically appealing to you, but also that it meets your need to be warm and comfortable. Therefore, to my rescue, I thank the cover-up genius, the Oh-so-trendy Coat:
so many different shapes, patterns and textures
flexible in infinite possibilities of mixing&matching.
“The Coat: winter’s secret weapon to a festive season.”
When you’re looking to be stylish while still being able to feel your toes, the Dear Coat is your friend (best friend). Not only does it guarantee you of being totally classy, but it is also sure to protect you from the freezing blitz.
Nothing is more beautiful than a woman with self-confidence. A coat offers you the perfect opportunity to walk in style and be comfortable in what you are wearing. It is sleek, elegant and begs for attention.
“Don’t feel pressured by trends,instead open your eyes to the various styles available, and make up your mind as to how you would like to see yourself keeping warm in this season.”
Coats provides us with a wide variety of print-, colour- and texture inspired shapes to cover up our bodies. Feel free to experiment. These colder seasons can be quite overwhelming due to the pricy investment buys. Coats will be in the more expensive category in comparison to your average jersey, therefore be sure to purchase the perfect one that will endure for the seasons to come.
“Don’t choose the coat, but let the coat choose you.”
A coat is a long-term item you add to you winter collection. It is a timeless accessory you can wear from season to season and even pass on to your children. Make sure that the coat you purchase is of well quality and dateless elements. Most of us lean towards a more classical cut or neutral colour. It is important to choose the correct colour and shape: look for something timeless and classic, something that will not start to bore you, but also compliments your closet and fits with most of your items.
Try staple and balanced colors, though if you have the disposable income to afford investing in some statement coats, then don’t be afraid to play the wildcard, choose something bold and noteworthy. If I could, I would purchase every coat that tickles my fashion-bone, but that doesn’t exactly fit my budget, now does it… If you’re looking into investing in a coat or two, here are a few stylish&timeless coat-trends to simplify your choice, let’s get coating:
The Oversized Coat
It’s trendy, it’s fun and it’s the oversized coat. From Celine’s checked-up 80’s throwback to Veronique Leroy’s modern&shape-bound cocoons or Chloe’s relaxed, pastel duffel, this coat is dominating the winter platform. These beauties, made to perform, have outshined sleek tailoring on the runways. Forget about shape, the oversized coat is all about being bold, it presents style. Choose a colored, texture or patterned coat to emphasize the impact. Compliment this coat with your favorite boyfriend jeans and a pair of classic heals (the perfect shoe would be Valentino’s Studded Point heels/sandals).
The classic Pea Coat
Clean, simple and elegant. The pea coat’s classical style makes it suitable for almost any occasion. It’s a versatile, easy-to-wear and fashion friendly. For a more chick look, also see the high collar pea coats. Polar necks and a sassy handbag would do this coat justice.
Gucci Read-To-Wear Fall 14
The Parka Coat
The parka, casual, military and comfortable, also known as the evolutionary puffer jacket, is perfect for an everyday quick-fix. Adjust your outfit with the quick touch of a clip-on fur collar.
The Cape Coat
Dramatic and mysterious, the cape coat approaches winter with a more lady-like and sensual tone.The oversized sleeves, belted waist detail and cropped hemlines emphasizes your curves.
The Toggle Coat
This coat is worn to create a boxy shape. Unlike the cape coat, it is combined with sporty influences to enhance a boyish style. Paired with some Dr. Martins or hiking boots and leather backpack, this coat is the perfect solution for an outdoor adventure.
The Blanket Coat
The blanket coat is exactly what it says: a-wrap-around blanket styled coat. This coat assures you of being warm&comfortabel with a slightly edgy and casual look. Wrap these around a capricious maxi skirt with a pair patent leather boots.