Un ami de la mode, Uncategorized

PARIS HAUTE COUTURE FASHION WEEK 2014: Most memorable moments

From manipulative silhouettes to exquisite beading, Paris Fashion week once again succeeds to never disappoint. Fashion Week kicked off with a fabulous start on Sunday, the 6th of July resulting in a fierce fashion fever to hit the globe. Designers continuously had us on the tip of our chairs staring and gawping at the spectacular masterpieces being showcased.

With awestruck eyes and defeated expectations we give a great, big salute to all the designers, photographers, media, street style divas and especially the organizers of this eventful week for giving fashion the opportunity to thrive.

Paris Fashion Week 2014 was a week filled with monumental moments worthy for being stated. Here are some of these golden moments that had all of the fashion world gawping in silence:

Giambattista Valli reincarnated last seasons pajama-styled tops with flamboyant breathtaking full skirts.Giambattista Valli 42, 44, 45 Giambattista Valli 38, 32, 36

 

 

Christian Dior wooed the crowd with a series of romantic Renaissance-inspired pannier-styled silhouettes that later evolved into futuristic slick jumpsuits and gold-embroidered coats.Christian Dior

 

 

Zuhair Murad VS Elie Saab
It simply is not possible to choose between these two designers. Both Murad’s and Saab’s collections showcased some of this season’s most astonishing evening wear. From cut-out silhouettes to fur collared silk gowns, every girl dreams of owning one of these beauties.

Elie Saab

Elie Saab 15,26

Zuhair Murad

 

 

VionnetVionett

 

 

Viktor&Rolf’s red revivalV&R 02-horz

 

 

Valentino Look no. 1900190h_426x639_31

 

 

Ulyana Sergeenko look no.1500150h_426x639

 

 

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Maison Martin Margiela look 1 & 1500150h_426x639_29-horz

 

 

Jean Paul Gaultier:

Themes: Vampira;“An elegant vampire in a luxurious jogging suit,” was how Gaultier described his fall couture show. Conchita Wurst (Winner of the Eurovision Song Contest 2014) who closed the show.
Trends: Dark and Mysterious, Sexy; Couture Jogging Suits; Mink; Hoodies; track pants; A-line gowns.
Colors: Black, Blood Red, White, Slate Gray and Gold.YVL_7983_426x639-horz YVL_9484_426x639-horz

 

 

Armani presents a shic and stylish collaboration of red, black and white.00450h_426x639_16-horz 00700h_426x639_4-horz

 

 

Bouchra Jarrar

Bouchra Jarrar presented a slick and elegant collection. Full of mystery, this collection reflects the sophisticated style of Jarrar’s inner Parisian: the detached, skeptical of trends, and fixated on developing the refinements of a chic, tomboyish uniform. Everything she does evolves from the biker jacket, the trench coat, and tailored pants, with which she’s developed signatures—the flourish of her asymmetric lapels; the scrolled peplum attached to a cinched-in belt; diagonal zippers. 00040h_426x639-horz 00210h_426x639-horz

 

 

Azzaro created a neat, sexy and mysterious collection by playing with simple cut-out silhouettes en shapes._ATL7200_426x639-horz _ATL7281_426x639-horz

 

 

Alexis Mable00190h_240x360

 

 

Serkan CuraSerkan+Cura+Runway+Paris+Fashion+Week+Haute+DNoQQM9FYg1l-horz

 

And now, the moment we’ve all been waiting for..

The trophy for most memorable moments goes to…

(drumroll)
None other than CHANEL!

Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel collection, Silhouettes, was a show filled with excellence and exquisite taste begging for attention and to its desire, it certainly received way more than deserved. Karl Lagerfeld sure knows what he is doing (not that anyone has ever doubted him). Chanel showcased a wide variety of outfits each with its own unique and respectable beauty. Fine detail and tailoring manifested the classic and passionate style of Chanel. Bejeweled and beaded garments had the audience bedazzled. Karl Lagerfeld closed the Chanel presentation with the pregnant model Ashleigh Good at his side, the fashion set began to wonder if the big-belly thing was poised to take shape as a new look.01090h_426x639-horz 01400h_426x639-horz 01600h_426x639-horz asdChanel 23-horz Chanel 55-horz

 

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Fresh off the runway

CHRISTIAN DIOR: Report

REPORT

AUTUMN/WINTER 2014-15

from the 

COUTURE COLLECTION:

CHRISTIAN DIOR

ONCE again held at the Rodin Museum, today’s Christian Dior Couture show saw us enter another Raf Simons structure in the gardens – oblong this time – which contained an orchid-walled circular structure. “Confronting what people now think is modern” – as Simons stated in the show notes – the designer created a mash-up of historical fashion references, taking inspiration from the Eighteenth century French court, Edwardian tailoring through to the modern day.

Watched by a front row that included Charlize Theron, Sean Penn, Valerie Trierweiler, Mario Testino, Paolo Roversi, the Arnaults and Bianca Jagger, the collection was shown in sets of not more than eight or 10 looks, which was effective in concentrating the mind to focus on the details. Simons did not deviate from his usual model of choice – pale-skinned, straight-haired – but did send them out to meander in a circle, hands in pockets, no linear sense of a catwalk to speak of.

The show started at the end, in traditional couture terms, beginning with ballgowns and further reiterating the message that all is now one in the same. Pannier-skirted gowns were three-quarter rather than full-length and were worn with narrow, sporty bodice tops in embroidered silk and armfuls of silver bangles.

The second set was more sporty: a grey silk jumpsuit with zipped details and minute motifs cinched with a metal belt bearing lacquered discs; while the third introduced an Edwardian mood: long patterned coats and one long grey mink coat worn simply with black trousers.

Typically, luxurious fabrications – with coats in mink, chinchilla and cashmere – were bought down to ground level by the simple styling and the nonchalant models, all in flat shoes and casually strolling. The following section, featuring Eighteenth century-inspired fop coats in heavily embroidered pastels, and then a number of dark navy pea coats with exaggerated taped shoulder detail, had the same easy mood.

A suggestion of time travel, approached in Simons’ unique way, manifested itself in a collection that brought history up to date.

The British Vogue

– Lauren Milligan

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CHRISTIAN DIOR

AUTUMN/WINTER 2014-15

from the 

COUTURE COLLECTION:

CHRISTIAN DIOR

 

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Fresh off the runway

CHRISTIAN DIOR: Runway

Gallery
Un ami de la mode

the coat VS the cold

– “Rainy weather, gray skies, jittery teeth, purple toes and ice-cold puddles”

“Oh how will we ever defeat mother nature?” –

Please, don’t get me wrong, I love winter, in fact, it’s my favorite season. Nothing brings me more joy than to disappear underneath an ocean of warm blankets while sipping on a hot cup of coffee and paging through my fashion collections. Though when it comes to facing the outdoors, I’m afraid a cup of coffee won’t be enough to calm the cold. Despite my steamy love affair with winter, I have to admit that the uncomfortableness of the freezing weather drives me insane. Due to this icy coldness of winter, it sometimes (actually most of the time) is difficult to create an outfit where fashion and comfort would be in perfect harmony. The key for a un des amis de la mode to survive mother nature’s icy strike is to achieve the perfect balance between fashion and comfort: to still dress classy, but also be warm enough to resist the cold. It all finally comes down to the popular question “What to wear?” we so frequently ask ourselves, especially on those freezing days when not even layering can save you from mother nature’s cold heart.

Winter calls for the cover-up season. It’s when coats, puffer jackets and ultra-cool biker jackets all come together to provide us with a comfy&trendy look to hot-up our wardrobes. In summer it’s easy to fix up a quick&stylish collaboration with quirky crops and sassy skirts and still be comfortable, however, winter makes it seem impossible for fashion to conquer the teeth-clinging cold. It’s necessary to assure that the items you purchase during this season is not only aesthetically appealing to you, but also that it meets your need to be warm and comfortable. Therefore, to my rescue, I thank the cover-up genius, the Oh-so-trendy Coat:

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stylish&warm

so many different shapes, patterns and textures

flexible in infinite possibilities of mixing&matching.

 

“The Coat: winter’s secret weapon to a festive season.”

 

When you’re looking to be stylish while still being able to feel your toes, the Dear Coat is your friend (best friend). Not only does it guarantee you of being totally classy, but it is also sure to protect you from the freezing blitz.

Nothing is more beautiful than a woman with self-confidence. A coat offers you the perfect opportunity to walk in style and be comfortable in what you are wearing. It is sleek, elegant and begs for attention.

“Don’t feel pressured by trends,instead open your eyes to the various styles available, and make up your mind as to how you would like to see yourself keeping warm in this season.”

Coats provides us with a wide variety of print-, colour- and texture inspired shapes to cover up our bodies. Feel free to experiment. These colder seasons can be quite overwhelming due to the pricy investment buys. Coats will be in the more expensive category in comparison to your average jersey, therefore be sure to purchase the perfect one that will  endure for the seasons to come.

“Don’t choose the coat, but let the coat choose you.”

A coat is a long-term item you add to you winter collection. It is a timeless accessory you can wear from season to season and even pass on to your children. Make sure that the coat you purchase is of well quality and dateless elements. Most of us lean towards a more classical cut or neutral colour. It is important to choose the correct colour and shape: look for something timeless and classic, something that will not start to bore you, but also compliments your closet and fits with most of your items.

Try staple and balanced colors, though if you have the disposable income to afford investing in some statement coats, then don’t be afraid to play the wildcard, choose something bold and noteworthy. If I could, I would purchase every coat that tickles my fashion-bone, but that doesn’t exactly fit my budget, now does it… If you’re looking into investing in a coat or two, here are a few stylish&timeless coat-trends to simplify your choice, let’s get coating:

 

 

The Oversized Coat

It’s trendy, it’s fun and it’s the oversized coat. From Celine’s checked-up 80’s throwback to Veronique Leroy’s modern&shape-bound cocoons or Chloe’s relaxed, pastel duffel, this coat is dominating the winter platform. These beauties, made to perform, have outshined sleek tailoring on the runways. Forget about shape, the oversized coat is all about being bold, it presents style. Choose a colored, texture or patterned coat to emphasize the impact. Compliment this coat with your favorite boyfriend jeans and a pair of classic heals (the perfect shoe would be Valentino’s Studded Point heels/sandals).

Céline Fall 13/14

Céline Fall 13/14

Céline Fall 13/14

Céline Fall 13/14

Céline Fall 13/14

Céline Fall 13/14

Chanel Fall 14/15

Chanel Fall 14/15

Veronique Leroy Autumn Winter 13/14

Veronique Leroy Autumn Winter 13/14

Simone Rocha Topshop Unique Autumn Winter 13/14

Simone Rocha Topshop Unique Autumn Winter 13/14

 

 

The classic Pea Coat

Clean, simple and elegant. The pea coat’s classical style makes it suitable for almost any occasion. It’s a versatile, easy-to-wear and fashion friendly. For a more chick look, also see the high collar pea coats. Polar necks and a sassy handbag would do this coat justice.

 Gucci Read-To-Wear Fall 14

Gucci Read-To-Wear Fall 14 2

Gucci Read-To-Wear Fall 14 3

Gucci Read-To-Wear Fall 14 4

Gucci Read-To-Wear Fall 14

Gucci Read-To-Wear Fall 14

fashion inspiration -  mfw - gucci - cool - chic - style - fashion - aw14 - pastel (12)

Yves Saint Larent

Yves Saint Laurent

 

 

The Parka Coat

The parka, casual, military and comfortable, also known as the evolutionary puffer jacket, is perfect for an everyday quick-fix. Adjust your outfit with the quick touch of a clip-on fur collar.

Nina Ricci Fall 13

Nina Ricci Fall 13

Alexander Wang Spring Summer 13/14

Alexander Wang Spring Summer 13/14

Chloé Fall 12/13

Chloé Fall 12/13

The Cape Coat

Dramatic and mysterious, the cape coat approaches winter with a more lady-like and sensual tone.The oversized sleeves, belted waist detail and cropped hemlines emphasizes your curves.

Dolce&Gabana Fall 14

Dolce&Gabana Fall 14

Christian Dior - Runway RTW - Fall 2013 - Paris Fashion Week

Christian Dior Fall 13

Chanel Fall 14

Chanel Fall 14

Valentino Fall 13

Valentino Fall 13

 

 

The Toggle Coat

This coat is worn to create a boxy shape. Unlike the cape coat, it is combined with sporty influences to enhance a boyish style. Paired with some Dr. Martins or hiking boots and leather backpack, this coat is the perfect solution for an outdoor adventure.

Burberry

Burberry Prorsum

Rachel Zoe Fall 13/14

Rachel Zoe Fall 13/14

Rag&Bone Fall 11

Rag&Bone Fall 11

Christopher Raeburn Ready-to-wear Fall 14

Christopher Raeburn Ready-to-wear Fall 14

Yves Saint Laurent

Yves Saint Laurent

The Blanket Coat

The blanket coat is exactly what it says: a-wrap-around blanket styled coat. This coat assures you of being warm&comfortabel with a slightly edgy and casual look. Wrap these around a capricious maxi skirt with a pair patent leather boots.

Etro, Burberry Prorsum, Robero Cavalli

Etro, Burberry Prorsum, Roberto Cavalli

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren

Burberry Prorsum Winter 14

Burberry Prorsum Winter 14

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Dear Coco

“F” stands for Fashion and “A” stands for Art.

“I am intrigued by the narrative woven into the imagination and creativity of self-expression, and, above all, the manifestation of an identity that extends far beyond the fashion that we buy and wear.”

Jackie Burger, Fashion Editor of Elle South Africa

When referring to the term “fashion”, each person has his/her own connotation: some might be negative and some might be positive. To some people fashion is a superficial way of spending money and gaining status while to others it is a spontaneous valve creating opportunity for the inner persona to manifest.

Nothing gets me more excited than engaging in fashion-based conversation with un des amis de la mode (a fasion friend). Normally we could go on for hours, discussing the endless possibilities of mixing and matching all sorts of garments, brainstorming over new and daring ideas and exploring the open minded space of creativity. But when I try to keep up the same conversation with the cashier at Cotton On, the so-called conversation would end up in me standing all alone in monologue style. Having made a conclusion I realized that the difference between these two bodies is the different interpretations of fashion. To me, and likely to my un des amis de la mode too, fashion is more than just a piece of clothing you wear to cover your body and look lovely for your “maybe”-future husband, fashion is form of self-expression, a momentous act/thought created when the soul, body and heart meats together. We do it, to wear it, not so that we can be it, but that it can be us.

Fashion cannot be defined or placed in a box, it represents a life liven and therefor it is enormous and monumental. A lot of people refer to fashion as art. I myself have a great passion for art and it makes perfectly sense to me why some people would relate to fashion as art: art is also a way of expressing yourself, just like fashion. Perhaps fashion can be seen as “wearable art“.

A few years ago the famous question “Is fashion art?” returned to the spotlight when fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld told the Telegraph: “I am against museums and exhibitions in fashion. One woman said to me — ‘In my world, the world of art’ — so I said: ‘Oh, don’t you make dresses anymore?’ A thin smile and then: ‘If you call yourself an artist, then you are second-rate.’”.

Whether fashion is art or not, at end, who cares? When we look at the work of some game-changing designers such as Alexander McQueen, Laura Mulleavy and Rodarte’s Kate, it is totally acceptable for fashion to intercept with the realm of art. Other designers agreeing with the statement that “fashion is art” includes Paul Poiret, who fancied himself as an artist, Ralph Rucci and John Varvatos who told ARTINFO: “If you’re creating and you’re new, and you’re pushing the envelope – I definitely think it’s a form of art”.

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Yves Saint Laurent co-founder and partner Pierre Bergé, who does not relate to fashion as art, describes some of the biggest names in the industry as artists. He told ARTINFO: “Fashion exists only when it’s worn by women. Otherwise, it is nothing. It’s not an art. But Yves Saint Laurent was an artist, like Balenciaga was an artist. And Chanel, too. And Christian Dior, too. And Schiaparelli was an artist. Fashion is not an art.

Contributing to the debate, against Lagerfeld’s wishes, is the fact that fashion is making its way into art’s most sacred institution — the museum — with exhibitions such as “Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty” at the Met, “Elsa Schiaparelli And Miuccia Prada: Impossible Conversations”, the traveling “Yves Saint Laurent: The Retrospective,” and the roving “Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk” all attracting record-breaking crowds.

The Met's Spring 2012 Costume Institute exhibition, Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations, explores the striking affinities between Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada, two Italian designers from different eras.

The Met’s Spring 2012 Costume Institute exhibition, Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations, explores the striking affinities between Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada, two Italian designers from different eras.

"Surreal Body"

“Surreal Body”

"Classical Body"

“Classical Body”

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“Don’t be a prisoner of fashion and don’t be afraid of age!”

– Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada

Schiaparelli-Prada-exhibition22_v_8may12_pa_b_320x4801

While fashion is parading around, having everyone scratching their heads, it still has quite a gap to fill before it convinces both industries (and the rest of the world) of its place in the field.

While the answer to this question remains in the dark, the tug of war between both companies will endure. For the long run it is best to refer to art and fashion as a symbiotic relationship – two different bodies relying and feeding off one another.

As Lagerfeld told the New York Times in 2008:

Art is art. Fashion is fashion. However, Andy Warhol proved that they can exist together.

Andy Warhol: Tomato (1968) transformed into a Campbell's Soup dress (Fashion Rogues, The Rodnik Band).

Andy Warhol: Tomato (1968) transformed into a Campbell’s Soup dress (Fashion Rogues, The Rodnik Band).

Thus, whether fashion is art or not, the true beauty of fashion is not about having a walk-in closet with bejeweled garments, velvet Versace dresses or a pair of leather Louis Vuitton’s , but the never-ending possibility for each persona to be her own “A-list” designer. Being classy goes much deeper than the skin. Classiness reflects the way you carry and present yourself, it is a lifestyle. You can always be classy and fashionable, but you can’t always be fashionable and classy. In fact it should be whether a person has a sense of classiness rather than a sense of fashion. Being fashionable does not guarantee you being classy, it guarantees you of just being you. Fashion is infinite, it can be anything, but being classy is the state of an honest heart in a passionate fashion-love affair.

Photographed by Emily Shur

Mark wears a sweater by Kenzo, shirt by Stussy, pants by Moschino and shoes by Havanas.
Kim wears a sweater by Chloe, shirt by Acne, dress by Kenzo, pants by Marni, necklaces by Emporio Armani and Marni, bracelets by Alexis Bittar, belt by Ariat International and shoes by Siperga.

Photographed by Emily Shur

Auguste wears dresses by Missoni and Sonia by Sonia Rykiel and necklace by Marni.

Photographed by Emily Shur

Mark wears a blazer by Lanvin, t-shirt by Givenchy, shirt by by Robert James, pants by Versace, necklace by Alexis Bittarand shoes by Givenchy.
Auguste wears shirts by Salvatore Ferragamo and Peter Som, skirts by Louis Vuitton and ICB, pants by Helmut Lang, scarf by Louis Vuitton, necklaces by Salvatore Ferragamo and Frieda Rothman Belargo Jewelry, bracelets and rings by Belargoand shoes by Carven.

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